The journey from St Andrews in Fife to North Berwick in East Lothian takes about two hours these days, depending on the traffic around Edinburgh. The super-rich can do it faster of course – It’s a helicopter journey of a matter of minutes across the water – roughly 20 miles as the whirlybird flies.
When the early pioneers of professional golf in Fife and East Lothian used to take each other on at their respective stomping grounds, the journey involved a ferry (plus other modes of transport.) Following a grudge match against the Parks in 1875, Young and Old Tom Morris were offered a ride in a sailing boat back from North Berwick to St Andrews after a telegram confirmed Young Tom’s wife had gone into labour. The sea route was the quickest way, although unfortunately not quick enough for Tommy to see his wife and child before they both died during the birth. A tragic tale.
Believe it or not, it’s still possible to take a day ferry from Fife to East Lothian – I wouldn’t be surprised if you didn’t believe it. I had certainly never heard of it, despite living in St Andrews for four years and continuing to visit regularly. But it is in fact true.
On the 6th of June I travelled across the Forth with my good St Andrews-based pals Fiona and Ian Fleetham (together with our golf clubs) via Sula Boat Trips and their Cross Forth Ferry. From Anstruther to North Berwick in just 45 minutes!
We reached Anstruther in time for the 9.15 crossing. We still couldn’t quite believe it was happening though, particularly when nobody in the harbour seemed to know what we were talking about… “A ferry?” One sailor shouted up to the harbour wall when he was pressed… “To North Berwick?… Well I never.”
Perhaps we had it wrong we wondered, but a quick phone call from Fiona confirmed our boat, Sula III, was on her way into the harbour. At the same time, another passenger arrived and assured us we were in the right place. All good then.
(Image credit: Ian Fleetham)
And there she was, the very sturdy and modern looking Sula III was expertly moored at…
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